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Between experiment, material, and vision

Between experiment, material, and vision
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February 24, 2026
in Industry, Newsletters
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Alexandra Ross shares her experiences during  the eight-month internship (February – September 2025) at TextileLab in Tilburg, where she investigated the technical and artistic potential of contemporary jacquard weaving.

My work with the looms at TextileLab in Tilburg, The Netherlands…

When I started my internship at TextileLab in Tilburg, it was planned to last six months – in the end, it lasted almost eight. This time was intense, educational, and incredibly inspiring for me. Not only did I get to work on two very different weaving platforms, but I also took my own project to a new level. A central part of my internship was working with the TC2 loom. For me, it is not the “little brother” of the industrial Jacquard, but an independent tool with its own unique qualities.

The TC2 loom as an experimental space

The first designs and material samples for my master’s thesis were created at TC2 loom. At that time, the loom had a monofilament warp, which was both exciting and challenging. Due to the transparency of the monofilament yarn, the weaves are barely visible, which means you can’t immediately see what is happening in terms of construction. In addition, the non-elastic warp behaves completely different depending on the weave structures – it reacts differently to tension, warp density, or floats. And that’s exactly what appealed to me. I had to look more closely, understand, observe. And that’s how I learned an incredible amount.

Video of the process: LINK

For me, a big advantage of the TC2 loom is the hand-operated weft insertion. This allows materials such as ceramic and metallic fibres, wood, wires, or other unusual elements to be woven in, which otherwise could not be integrated on an industrial loom. This openness to other media greatly expands textile thinking.

Of course, working on the TC2 loom is slower because it is woven by hand, but I don’t see that as a disadvantage. On the contrary, this slowness allows you to consciously follow the process. Every single weft is set, observed, and understood. You can see in real time what your own decisions are doing. Often, it is precisely at this moment that an “aha” moment occurs. This leads to a much deeper understanding of construction and material.

My love of jacquard weaving

I love jacquard weaving for its endless design possibilities. For me, it’s like painting, using yarns and textures instead of paint. A drawing or illustration is transformed into a three-dimensional composition through the construction of the weave structures and the choice of materials.

Video of the weaving process: LINK

I am not bound by fixed repeats. I can translate my own drawings directly into textile structures. The fascinating thing is that even small changes, such as a different materials or a slightly adjusted weave structures, can transform the entire work. A few tweaks and the result is something completely new.

I find the interplay of creativity and technology especially exciting. I love programming the looms and translating ideas directly into their logic. Which weave is right? How many layers do I need? Which combination of materials creates the desired effect? Every decision shapes the fabric and often surprising results emerge. It is precisely this sensitivity and versatility that, for me, make up the magic of jacquard.

My master’s project:  Textile Networks

In my master’s thesis, I explore the “intelligence” of plants and the invisible networks in nature. Plants communicate, react, and remember, even if we don’t immediately perceive it. I translate this idea into a textile room installation. Several textile objects are connected to each other, react to the presence of people, and transmit light pulses. The result is a living, changing system.

Video of the Design process: LINK

It is particularly important to me that the technology is fully integrated into the fabric. Conductive yarns, sensors, and electronic structures are not visibly applied, but are already incorporated into the design. Multi-layered weaving techniques allow them to be concealed within the fabric. The hidden technical components do not influence the design on the surface. Only through interaction does the technical dimension of the textile become visible.

From TC2 Loom to industrial Jacquard 

After developing my initial ideas, material combinations, and design principles on the TC2 loom, I continued my project on an industrial Jacquard loom.

Using NedGraphics to prepare a file to weave on the TC2

There, I was able to realize larger formats and more complex implementations. For me, the two systems complement each other perfectly: the TC2 loom is my laboratory, my place of experimentation. The industrial Jacquard is the place for scaling and refinement.

Video of the weaving process the TC2 loom: LINK

A concept for the future

In addition to my own project, I was tasked with developing a concept for integrating the TC2 loom more closely into the DNA of TextileLab and making it accessible to external artists and designers. I conducted interviews, spoke with other labs, organized test runs, carried out my own weaving tests, and investigated what kind of support was needed. At TC2 loom, the person working has a lot of responsibility – for construction, material selection, and programming. That’s why both technical, as well as design and construction choices are equally important.

 

I also worked out the advantages of TC2 loom compared to industrial looms in order to formulate project ideas for the future. In the end, my research and test runs resulted in a research report with concrete recommendations for possible programs and structures.

More than just a machine

For me, the TC2 loom is a tool for research, learning, and experimentation, and also an independent medium for developing design and art. It combines digital freedom with haptic craftsmanship.

I love “painting” with yarns, developing structures, and seeing how small decisions can create entirely new textile worlds. It is precisely this combination of experimentation, materials, technical expertise, and vision that made my internship at TextileLab so special.

I am very grateful for this unique experience and for having been part of this incredible team. I would like to express my special thanks and appreciation to my mentor Marjan van Oeffelt, who placed a lot of trust in me and always supported me in my crazy ideas. She gave me many opportunities to develop professionally. This has opened several doors for me to pursue my creative and technical goals in the future.

About…

Alexandra is currently pursuing her Master’s in Textil Design in Reutlingen, Germany. Her future goal is to continue growing as a textile artist and designer, through exciting collaborations and interdisciplinary projects where materials, technology, and ideas can collide in interesting ways. But before all that, her current (and very real) mission is to successfully complete her Master project in April.

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