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Works by students at Academy of Fine Arts and Design, Bratislava

Works by students at Academy of Fine Arts and Design, Bratislava
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In this edition of the What’s on Your Loom series, we feature the works of two students – Kristína Oškerová and Tatiana Poljak – from the Studio of Fiber Art at the Academy of Fine Arts and Design in Bratislava. In their works, the two students explore their personal themes through Jacquard weaving technology. Below, they explain their motives and technological processes. 

Title: Trust Your Appetite

Works by: Kristína Oškerová, First year Masters’ student

In my work, I use digital Jacquard weaving technology on a TC2 loom. I work on creating my own jacquard fabric, through which I reflect a theme or a concept I chose, resulting in the creation of the original art fabric, which I later try to apply to a functional object. My previous projects have focused on creating fabrics for seating furniture, as I enjoy creating fabrics with an artistic and functional intent. What I am currently exploring in my work is the technical processing of the visual design, which I am directly transforming and digitizing into already specific patterns that, once woven, will match exact dimensions. The dimensions are necessary for the cut moulds, continuity of the fabric pattern, and consequent simple application to the product.

I find this technology and process meaningful in terms of generating less textile waste in the form of unused scraps and cuttings. My way of thinking was inspired by Holly McQuillan, who in her PhD project “Zero Waste Systems Thinking: Multimorphic Textile Forms” studied the production of 3D garment moulds that were directly woven on a machine, to achieve zero waste in garment making.

For my latest project, I have worked on creating textile structures, using a three-beam system combined with two wefts, using satin weaves, to achieve subtle transitions in the fabric. The tabourets I wove the jacquard fabric for, were created under a series of works called Trust Your Appetite. This title is a pun that visually references modern maximalism and deals with the theme of food. I work with a primitive, primal, fleeting intention where simplicity, playful, expressive colour and material are a strong means of expression in the fabric created. Figuratively, for me the title Trust Your Appetite defines and symbolizes joy and trust in the procedure in any sphere, professional or personal. It is important for me to follow procedures that may seem shallow at first, or too simple, yet ultimately they are able to take us to more meaningful spheres.

Title: Invaluable

Works by: Tatiana Poljak, Fourth year Bachelors’ student

Invaluable is a textile installation consisting of a textile tapestry with a mirror as a motif of self-reflection. The tapestry is meant to encourage the observer to reflect on the position of women in Middle Eastern culture, their political as well as human rights to reflect on whether they are able to consent to their position in the society. The theme of the tapestry in question reflects an event from 2022 – the death of a young girl from Iran.

The tapestry’s composition was chosen to be horizontal to accurately illustrate the story of the death, which was only the beginning of a protest that spread throughout Europe in a very short time. My aim as the author of the work was to respond to this problem as well as to the problem of forgetting the weaving, a technique typical of the Middle East.

The intention of the work is to modernize the tapestry. Modernizing the tapestry with a technique such as Digital Jacquard weaving allows for a realistic representation of the subject matter, thanks to a digitally-designed composition. The woven tapestry on a digital Jacquard loom was an ideal solution to convey an idea and intention of the work.

The loom has allowed me to create my own tapestry, which is modernized in the way it is created. Yet, it has also allowed me to create the work from the beginning, such as the graphic design, the selection of the threads, to the final large-scale realization. In the tapestry, I have used spectacular weaves such as the large flotation of the weft that shows the drama of the treated theme. The tapestry is woven on a double warp, using natural weft threads such as linen and cotton. The warp consists of the white and black colours use 4 wefts with different colours such as beige, brick, red and blue, they are meant to accentuate the emotional effect that the work is meant to evoke in the viewer.

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